Stabilizing carved timber posts

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Permalink Reply by Will Sampson on July 10, 2009 at 8:09am

Mike, I don't have specific knowledge in this area, but I have some potentially related knowledge through some involvement with timber framing. Checking and other surface splitting is quite common in timbers used for timber framing, depending on the species used. For example, hemlock is much more prone to this than pine. But in most cases, the checks and splits don't have enough structural significance to matter and timber framers simply tell customers this is a natural part of a timber frame building. In your situation where you are covering the timbers with elaborate hand carving and apparently intricate painting, I could see where the splits could be a serious esthethic issue even if they are not a structural concern. I would be tempted to use a good industrial epoxy as a filler such as West Systems. It comes in a variety of flavors and fillers to meet most needs. Here's a link to their website: www.westsystem.com. Hope that helps.

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Permalink Reply by Mike Musgrove on July 13, 2009 at 11:12pm

Will, Thanks for the link to West Systems web site. They seem to have a wide array of products and there is much more information about using the products than I found on any other website. This seems to be the right direction to go for what I am trying to accomplish.

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Permalink Reply by Will Sampson on July 22, 2009 at 1:27pm

Mike, I talked to several people at the AWFS Fair in Las Vegas about your project. Several people suggested the simplest, best and lowest cost fix would be to use Bondo (automotive filler) to fill the cracks. Something to think about...

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Permalink Reply by David Bray on July 21, 2009 at 3:06pm

I wouldn't touch them until they are stable. From some of the research I have done - and I am not saying that this applies, but if the wood was kiln dried but too wet when it was put into the kiln, this may be contributing to your problem. The type of kiln and how long it was there are also factors. In working with a local saw mill that had a kiln, I was shown where several woods that have a naturally high MC can take several years to dry in a log state before kiln drying. The science to this is amazing, anyway, if this checking is getting worse then the core may not have been dried properly if at all or there are other stresses at work that you are not aware. Walnut is really good at going off in different directions as is elm.

For a couple of pieces that I had that were highly checked - actually, they were split, I continued the split and hollowed out the core and put the pieces back together. They didn't fit exactly but they were much closer than as split solid wood. This was not an easy task for a small piece - for 18' - I don't know, but it is something to think about. It would depend a great deal on how it was splitting, and the real reason it is splitting, etc... The cavieat to this is that if you continue the split, the pieces could go the wrong direction and they will never go back together. Keep in mind that what ever you decide to do, for wood to highly check or split, there is tension that is being released and others are being created, be careful and be safe. I once had a checked piece of walnut all but blow up on my table saw in my hands.

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Permalink Reply by David Arde on September 8, 2009 at 12:14pm

Will the timbers be outside or inside. I work for a glulam manufacturer and we make big timbers with D. fir. Checking as it is called will happen. Unless they were kiln dried in a Vacuum kiln they will split. 24" x 24" is very big and will take a long time to dry evenly from the inside to the outside and stop cracking. If the timbers are to be used outside tarp them and store them outside. The slower they dry out the better. They could continue to crack and split for a year or more. Bondo would be a good choice to fill the cracks or pieces of wood and epoxy.

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Permalink Reply by Wesley Bevan on September 17, 2009 at 11:16pm

Wow, Mike that is a big problem to solve and I might shine just a very small beam of light on it.
I live on the west coast of Canada and we have very large,old Totem Poles that have not crack. The First Nation Peoples hollow out the tree after carving them.. They cut the back off - hollow and return the back to its right place. This is probably not an option at this point.
The main point is that the middle of the tree moves at a different rate than the outside - causing cracks. I like to idea of a waterproof foam with a filler cover. I imagine that the wood is outside so there will always be wood movement causing more cracks after the fix. SO the material the is used needs to be flexible, i.e. caulkingish. This is where a marine product has the advantage.
Ok, these are my thoughts for now.. I have been known to have solutions appear in my head, if I can't sleep at night.. If that happens I will share them with you..
Please inform us of the results...

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Permalink Reply by Mike Musgrove on June 8, 2010 at 10:39pm

Thanks everyone for the input! I ended up using Aeromarine epoxy mixed with wood powder (also provided by Aeromarine) to create a filler. It was definately in the realm of experimentation but worked out quite well after we figured out a system. The posts were sanded and sealed as soon as possible after the epoxy cured and are ALL still looking nice after almost a year. I am feeling that the paint helped to slow down the drying so hopefully any future checking is not too drastic.

Here is a picture from this winter with the posts in place.

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• post.jpg, 142 KB

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